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Hindu temples are same in most aspects. Symbolic recreations of
the Divine Cosmos, Hindu temples are structures whose very form
reverberates with symbolism and with meaning. Temples have also
served as a meeting place for all those living in the vicinity.
Even
today, in most of the villages of Orissa, one can see that the
village temple still carries out most of these functions. Many
of the sculptural scenes are taken from religious mythology and
legends; many represent military and courtly life and the
activities, which would have been associated with the temple
(such as pilgrimage, teaching, or performance). The jewel-like
quality of Orissan stone sculpture has often been remarked, and
the temples, from a distance, do indeed convey an impression of
resplendent beadwork.
Orissan
temples, and especially the Sun Temple at Konark, are famous for
their beautiful and often quite explicit erotic imagery. In
Orissa, it has frequently been suggested that the imagery has
specific reference to Tantric cults. Tantrism, which
concentrates on worship of the shakti (female life force),
combined elements of both Buddhism and Hinduism with a belief in
the efficacy of magic ritual. Sublimated sexual power was seen
as especially potent in many Tantric rituals. The senses and
feelings, which are common to human experience, are used in
Indian art to communicate some sense of the divine experience,
and it is the genius of the Orissan artist in doing this that
infuses all Orissan sculpture with an ineffable delicacy and
spirituality that transcends the subject matter.
Though
the whole of Orissa is famous for its temples, a few of the
important temples are :
Temple
of Lord Jagannath in Puri
Sakhi Gopinath in Puri
Sun Temple, Konark
Lingaraj Temple, Bhubaneswar
Rajarani Temple, Bhubaneswar
Mukteswar Temple, Bhubaneswar
Baladevajew, Kendrapara
Khiching Temple
Nrusinghanath & Harishankar
Most
of the temples in Orissa are in one way or the other connected
to Lord Jagannath.
BHUBANESWAR
CAPITAL
city of the modern state and the ancient kingdom of Kalinga,
Bhubaneswar is known as the Temple City of India. Among the
finest of its 600 temples is the Lingaraja Temple of Shiva,
built in the 11th century. It is also the biggest in Bhubaneswar.
No
less famous is the Mukteswara Temple which was built in the 10th
century. It is well known for its stone arch at the entrance and
is richly sculpted. With the tales from the Panchatantra carved
on it, the temple is a magnificent example of Orissan
architecture. The Rajarani Temple, set in picturesque
surrounding, is noted for its intricate carvings of floral,
animal and human figures. Constructed in the 11th century, it
has an unusual tower. More interestingly, the temple has no
deity.
Close to the Mukteswara Temple is the Parsurameswara Temple, a
small but richly decorated shrine of Shiva that was built in the
7th century. It is one of the best preserved. It has sculptures
featuring amorous couples, animals and floral motifs. The
Svarnajaleswara Temple located a little south of Parsurameswara
Temple has beautiful depictions from the epic Ramayana. Vaital
Temple is architecturally striking. It is a temple for Goddess
Chamunda (Kapali) and has a tantric influence. About 15 km from
Bhubaneswar is the Yogini Temple at Hirapur. One of the four
Yogini Temples in India, it has beautiful Yoginis carved from
black chlorite.
The Buddhist influence is spread all over Bhubaneswar. Ashokan
Rock Edict is situated at Dhauli, 8 km south of the city. The
sculpted elephant atop the edict signifies the Mauryan Emperor
Ashoka’s conversion to Buddhism after his Kalinga victory.
This is said to be the earliest rock-cut sculpture in India.
On
the Dhauligiri Hills, where the great Kalinga war was fought,
stands a very modern monument to world peace, the Vishwa Shanti
Stupa. This magnificent Buddhist Temple was built by
Indo-Japanese collaboration. Below the Dhauligiri Hills, the
river Daya flows peacefully. |
RAJA-RANI
TEMPLE
This
temple is located in old Bhubaneshwar. This gracefully
proportionate 11th country temple stands against the
backdrop of green paddy (rice) fields, looking very alluring.
This temple is famous for its elaborately ornate sanctuary. Here
one can see a pair of satries or dikpals (temple guardians). In
addition to these one can see beautiful nymphs, embracing
coupler, lions, elephants decorating the pillars and walls.
Yama in various forms and postures can be seen-it is both
fascinating and intermidating for e.g.: Yama holding several
heads and a sword over the lying figure of a dead man.
The
Orissa king who created this temple died before the finishing
touches to the temple were given. A deity was placed leaving the
1 sanctum sanctorum eternally godless, yet it is filled with
vacant peace as no pujas are performed here and one can roam
around freely.
VAITAL
TEMPLES
The
Vaital Temple (c. AD 800) belongs to the Khakhara order (a
subdivision of the Kalinga school of architecture) which was
used for shrines devoted to tantric cults. The deul (tower) of
the temple is the most striking difference. It is rectangular in
shape, positioned at a right angle to the Jagmohana (porch). The
roof vault is derived from earlier free-standing buildings made
of wood and thatch. The horseshoe-shape of the chaitya arch
became an enduring motif, turning up not only in actual
structures, such as the Vaital Temple, but frequently in
sculptural decoration. On the Vaital Temple, the outer surface
of the vault is absolutely plain, in contrast with the heavy
sculptural embellishment of every other existing Orissan temple
tower. The shape of the more common Temple form has not been
ignored, however; it has been carefully inserted, in miniature
form, on the four corners of the Vaital Temple's jagmohana
(porch). A brief look at the Vaital Temple will show an
extremely accomplished style of sculptural decoration. A
slightly closer look will reveal some of the darker facets of
the sculpture's content, and the temple's nature. Tantric
worship, which combined elements from certain sects of both
Buddhism and Hinduism, centered on the worship of shakti, the
female life force. It developed elaborate rituals involving
magic spells, secret rituals and sacrificial offerings. The
interior of the Vaital Temple's inner sanctum is almost
completely dark, in keeping with the esoteric rites believed to
have been performed there. The temple deity of Chamunda (tantric
form of the Hindu goddess Durga) is dimly visible behind her
grille, portrayed with a garland of skulls around her neck,
seated on a corpse, flanked by an owl and a jackal. Her
emaciated body, sunken eyes, and shrunken belly are quite
remarkable, and even the usually staid and unflappable
Archaeological Survey of India, in their guide to Bhubaneswar,
cannot help but remarking that she displays the 'most terrible
aspect conceivable'. The 15 niches which adorn the interior wall
around her are also filled with a series of singularly strange
images. In front of the entrance to the sanctum is a 'fourfaced'
linga adorned with unusual carvings. Next to it is a post, to
which sacrificial offerings were tied. The entire atmosphere is,
in the words of one specialist, disquieting. The Archaeological
Survey, sums it up more directly: 'weird'. On the outer, eastern
face of the tower (back, thankfully, in the sunlight), there is
an extremely fine image of the sun god, Surya, with a sensitive
and beautiful face. He is flanked by Usha and Pratyusha, twin
sisters of the dawn, while his chariot is driven by Aruna. This
is a motif that will be remembered, and later developed fully in
the Sun Temple at Konark. The first erotic sculptures known in
Orissan art are found here, in a sunken transitional panel on
the super-structure. It has been suggested that these images,
which are a sort of catalogue of positions, had real relevance
to the tantric rituals of this particular temple. Once presented
here, they acquired the force of convention and temple builders
in later centuries may have accepted them as a standard part of
the temple decoration repertoire.
PARSURAMESWAR
TEMPLE
This
650 A.D. temple is one of the oldest temples existing in
Bhubaneshwar. It is close to the main Bhubaneshwar-Puri road, on
the same side as the Lingaraj temple. It has all the main
features of the pre-10th century Orissan architectural style
temples like pine spire curving up to a point over the sanctum,
which houses the deity and the pyramid-covered Jagmohan, where
people sit and pray. It has a lively bas-relief of horses and
elephant’s processions and latticework on windows. Outside the
temple one can see exotic carvings of Ganesha, the elephant God
Karti Keya, Shiva Parvati and other deities.
On
the northwest corner of the temple compound one comes across the
exoticaly unique " Lingam of one thousand Lingas "-
the phallic symbol of shiva with 1,000 lingas engraved on it.
[This is one of the best-preserved, Shiva temples. The masonry
was kept in place by weight and balance].
The other interesting carvings to be seen are those of Shiva
tackling the Lankan king "Ravana," who is trying to
uproot Mount Kailasa, the abode of Lord Shiva. Shiva is also
shown in the endearing posture as "Natraja"- The Lord
of Dance.
MUKTESWAR
TEMPLE
This
beautifully decorated 10th century, elaborately carved temple is
not far from the Parsurameswar temple. It is one of the smallest
temples and the compactness of the temple is also very striking.
The tank inside the compound is still used by the priest and the
devotees. In the well here the women still toss coins in the
hope of curing infertility. On the doorframe one can see the
carvings of the local saint, Lakulisa. Its earthy red sandstone
body is encrusted with intricate carvings, depicting starved
lean looking Sadhus (holy men) to voluptuous, become women
bedecked with jewels Mukteswar's most distinctive feature is the
arched gateway also called "Torana" dated about 900
A.D. The Torana shows the influence of Buddhist architecture.
This thick pillared, arched gateway is beautifully carved with
strings of beads and other attractive ornaments with statues of
smiling women in languorous postures. In the yard stands the
Kedareswar Temple, with a striking 8 feet statue of Ram Bhakt
Hanuman (the monkey God).
SIDDERVARA
TEMPLE
Immediately
to the NorthWest of the Muktesvara Temple is the Siddervara
Temple. The temple is plain and the carving not elaborate.
Unlike the earlier temple, the vertical lower section is divided
into five parts and the amla on top of the sanctuary is
supported by four squatting figures.
The Gauri Temple to the South is built in the Kahkhara style and
has carvings of beautiful women in numerous poses.
Ketu, the ninth planet has been introduced in this temple.
BRAHMESWAR
TEMPLE
This
11th century temple is about a kilometer east of the main road.
In the courtyard of the temple one comes across four small
structures while crossing the porch of the temple one comes
across the image of Goddess Lakshmi (Goddess of wealth). Covered
with a piece of cloth, with incense sticks in front of it. The
main sanctuary houses a Shivalinga. The tower of the Sanctuary
is over 18m in height.
The
exterior of the temple is elaborately carved with swans,
monkeys, lions, deers, figures of Gods and Goddesses, religious
scenes and the ninth planet "Ketu" also finds its
place here.
The scenes in the riches of the miniature temples of the upper
sections are mainly exotic couples in various poses and
voluptuous female figures elaborately bedecked with ornaments. A
rare depiction of Shiva as Natraja playing on a vina above a
bull is found in the carvings of this temple.
THE
SHATRUGHANESHVARA GROUP
Mohini,
Uttaresvara, Gauri-Sankara-Ganesh and Parchimesvara temple.
These temples are in ruins with only the core visible. The first
three temples belonged to the 6th century. The Archaeological
Department of Orissa has rebuilt the southernmost temple in the
group.
Baladevajew
Temple
Known
to the pilgrims as ' Tulasi Kshetra', Kendrapara houses the
temple of Lord Baladeva. The rites and rituals of Lord Jagannath
at Puri are generally followed here which make Kendrapara
equally attractive - 95 km from Bhubaneswar.
MADHAVA TEMPLE
The
famous Madhava temple(13th century) is located on the eastern
bank of the Prachi River, about 6 kms. from Niali (Cuttack
District). The area between Niali and Madhava appears to have
been the principal centre of the Madhava (four-armed Vishnu)
cult in Orissa, made famous in Sri Jayadeva's Gita Govinda. The
temple is also sometimes referred to as "Durgamadhava"
because of the presence of a small Durga image next to Madhava
within the sanctum. This joint worship of Durga and Madhava is
unique to Orissan Vaishnavism, and is yet another testament of
the great Orissan process of synthesis. Madhava is a temple in
active worship, and, in fact, draws a large number of pilgrims
from all over Orissa.
BRAHMESWARA
TEMPLE
Both
the deul (tower) and jagmohana (porch) of the Brahmeswara temple
(c. 1050) are in the fully developed mature Orissan style. This
temple can be dated with fair accuracy by the use of
inscriptions that were originally on the temple. They are now
unfortunately lost, but records of them preserve the
information.
The Brahmeswara shows quite a bit of affinity with the much
earlier Mukteswara temple, including the carved interior of the
jagmohana, and in the sculptural iconography (such as the
lion#head motif which appeared for the first time in the
Mukteswara, and is here evident in profusion). There are quite a
number of innovations, however, including the introduction of a
great number of musicians and dancers (some holding lutes) on
the exterior walls, and the use (for the first time) of iron
beams in the construction.
The carvings over the door frame contain beautiful flower
designs as well as flying figures. Like the Rajarani, there are
images of the eight directional Guardian Deities. There are also
quite a number of tantric-related images, and even Chamunda
(last glimpsed in the Vaital Deul inner sanctum) appears on the
western facade, holding a trident and a human head, standing on
a corpse. Shiva and other deities are also depicted in their
horrific aspects.
One of the lost inscriptions stated that a Queen Kolavati
presented 'many beautiful women' to the temple, and it has been
suggested that this is an evidence of the devadasi tradition
which assumed such importance in later Orissan temple
architecture and temple life.
SIMHANATH
TEMPLE
Situated
on an island in the Mahanadi River, about 10 kms. from Badamba
in Cuttack District, the Simhanath temple (c. 9th century) is
interesting for its images of Shaiva, Shakta, and Vaishnava
cults of Hinduism. The jagmohana (porch) appears to be
influenced by the Vaital Deul temple in Bhubaneswar.
The Simhanath temple combines older features with new and
energetic experiments. This can be seen in such things as the
elongation of the Paga images which crown the niches, and in the
addition of a third terrace to the roof of the jagmohana.
NRUSINGHANATH TEMPLE
Located in the sacred Gandhamardan Hills, which according to
legends, Hanuman carried on his shoulders from the Himalayas as
described in the ancient epic Ramayana, the temple at
Nrusinghanath is an important pilgrimage site. It is also an
exceedingly fascinating and beautifully located temple and
is worth the journey to this rather remote spot.
The present temple, located at the source of the Papaharini
stream, is a 14th century structure built on a more ancient
site. The four pillars within the Jagmohana suggest that the
earlier temple was built in the 9th century. The beautiful
doorframes have been dated to the 11th century.
The site of the temple is unique. Stone steps wind up the
hillside behind the temple, leading past a waterfall, and
eventually curving under the falls to a spot where some
beautiful, and very well- preserved relief sculptures are found.
The climb to the carvings and return journey will take about an
hour. Since shoes are not permitted on these sanctified
pilgrimage steps, those with tender feet should take along a
pair of heavy socks for the climb.
On the opposite slope of the hill on which the temple is
located, is the Harishankar Temple. Between the two temples
there is a 16 km. plateau, littered with Buddhist ruins that
scholars feel may be the remains of the ancient university of
Parimalagiri, referred to by the seventh-century Chinese
traveler Hiuen T'sang as 'Po-lo-mo-lo-ki-li'. The trek along
this plateau is a long one, but for the serious student of
history, it is an unforgettable experience.
KHICHING TEMPLE
The town of Khiching, which is now a rather remote destination
in the northern area of Orissa, was obviously once a religious
center of some importance. The temples which remain today,
although interesting in their own right, are but the humble
remnants of a more glorious past.
The large temple of KICHAKESWARI, originally probably dating
back to the 7th or 8th century, was reconstructed from the ruins
of an earlier temple in the early 20th century. The
reconstruction,which used the traditional technique of moving
large stone elements up a huge earthen ramp, proved that the
ancient skill of temple building and architecture survived into
the current century.
Unfortunately, scholars feel that the constructed temple does
not reflect the true form of the original, and that the shape
now is a bit disproportionate. Nevertheless, the sculptures on
this and other Khiching temples are exceptionally beautiful.
Large, tall images, they are slender and graceful, reflecting a
remarkable sophistication and deftness of touch. In addition to
the temples,there is a small museum in Khiching with some very
fine images.
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LEANING
TEMPLE (huma)
Huma,
32 km from Sambalpur and 350 km from Bhubaneswar is
adorned with a leaning temple dedicated to Lord Bimaleswar.
On the river Mahanadi, it is a scenic spot of great
excellence. The Kudo fishes here are believed to belong to
Lord Siva and they are very friendly to visitors.
PATALESWAR
TEMPLE
Budhikomna
in Nawapara district, 115 km from Bhawanipatna houses the
famous temple of Pataleswar, made entirely of brick in
Trirath style. The architectural design is quite
interesting to art-lovers and general visitors alike.
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Details
of some other temples which are not discussed over here
are:
Ananta
Vasudeva temple, Bhubaneswar
Bharteswara temple
Bhaskareswar temple
Bharatinatha temple
Chandana temple
Chitrakarini temple
Daiteawar temple
Gaurishankara temple
Vimaleswar temple
Suberneswar temple
Shatrughneswar temple
Markandeswar temple
Papanasini temple
Rajarani temple
Kedar Gauri temple
Kedareswar temple |
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