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Konark, Black Pagoda

 
Bhubaneswar Puri Konark Cuttack Bhittarkanika Balasore
Berhampur Paradeep Chilika Jajpur Dhauligiri Keonjhar
Dhenkanal Phulbani Bolangir Sambalpur  Lalitgiri Baripada
Rourkela Rayagada Nandankanan Gopalpur Remuna

 

 

Konark, also known as Arka-Tirtha, is known for its fantastic temple of Lord Surya, the sun-god. It is situated on the seashore, 33km north of Puri and 64km from Bhubaneswar. It was constructed of black stone in the beginning of the 13th century, and it is considered one of the most vivid architectural showpieces of Hindu India. Despite the fact that the “Black Pagoda” is in ruins, the remaining porch area and other structures of this temple complex remain a crown jewel of Orissan artwork.


Information
There is an Orissa State Tourist Office (3420) in the Yatri Niwas Hotel.

Canara Bank, near the post office, changes money.

 

There is a small Archeological Museum on the main road (daily except Friday 10 am to 5 pm) which contains sculptures found during the temple excavation. Visitors can purchase the Archaeological Survey of India’s Sun Temple-Konark here for Rs 10. It is not sold at the temple itself.

 

Most evenings the temple is floodlit until 9 pm. It looks inspiring at this time.

 

Registered guides (those wearing a badge) can show you many interesting sculptures and sites you may miss on your own (Rs 50 per hour).


The Konark Dance Festival, featuring classical Indian dancing, is held in November, every year. There is a similar dance festival held in February.

 

Konark is a major tourist spot, and fighting away the hawkers and vendors can be tedious. These people will try to charge you double or triple the correct price for anything they sell, except the booklet about the place.

 

There is a quiet beach about 3km south of the temple. The currents can be strong there, however, so swimming may be dangerous.

 

Not far from the beach is a pond where Krishna’s son Samba is said to have been cured of leprosy. Every year during the full moon phase in the month of Magha (Jan-Feb) there is a festival called Magha Saptami Mela. People bathe in the pond at night and then watch the sun rise over the sea the next morning.


Sun Temple

This temple was built in the 13th century by the Orissan King Raja Narasimhadeva I. It took 1,200 workmen over sixteen years to build. The temple is covered with intricately carved sculptures. The temple was no longer used from the early 17th century after it was desecrated by Muslim invaders. In 1904, the sand around the temple base was cleared.

 

The story of the temple is that Samba, the son of Lord Krishna, was cursed to suffer from leprosy for twelve years. Because he had been cursed by the sun-god, he built a temple dedicated to Surya. Sailors once called this temple the Black Pagoda because it was supposed to draw ships to shore and cause shipwrecks.

 

This impressive temple resembles a huge chariot with twenty-four wheels pulled by seven horses. Great pairs of large, intricately carved wheels were sculpted on both sides of the 4m high platform upon which the temple sits. Some say the wheels represent the twenty-four hours in a day; others say they represent the 12 months. The seven horses are said to symbolize the seven days of the week.

 

There is a dancing hall, an audience hall, and a high tower. The main entrance has two large stone lions crushing elephants. Between the entrance and the main part of the temple is an intricately carved Dancing Hall. The main tower, which has since collapsed, was 70m (220 feet) high. The Jagmohana (porch) is over 39m (125 ft) high and is filled in and fortified with rocks to keep it from collapsing. Both the tower and porch were built on a high platform. All over the base, walls, and roof are intricate carvings. Many of the carvings are erotic in nature, similar to the ones at Khajuraho. Visitors can climb down to the inner sanctum by the temple’s west side.

 

There are three impressive chlorite figures of Surya facing different directions in order to catch the sun at dawn, noon, and sunset. The three statues of Surya change their facial expressions from wakefulness in the morning (south) to weariness toward the end of day (north).


There is a small shrine dedicated to Mayadevi, Surya’s wife, in the southwest corner of the enclosure. At the north part of the enclosure, to the right of the entrance, is a group of stone elephants. At the south side is a group of stone horses rearing and trampling men. To see the entire temple takes about two hours.

 

There is also a temple containing the nine planets: Sun, Moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Rahu, and Ketu, located to the right of the main entrance before you enter the complex.

 

Where to Stay

Labanya Lodge (35824; fax 35860), in a quiet area, is a popular place with travelers and has rooms with common bath for Rs 100/125.

 

Lodging Sunrise is the least expensive place in the area.


Yatri Niwas (35820) is a good value with clean rooms for Rs 160 and Rs 350 with A/C.


Orissa Tourism’s Travellers’ Lodge has A/C rooms for Rs 300; however, the rooms are not well-maintained.
The OTDC Panthaniwas (35831), opposite the main temple entrance, is in a good location and is a clean, well-maintained place with double rooms with hot water for Rs 200 and Rs 550 with A/C.


Travel
Konark is located 65km from Bhubaneswar and 35km north of Puri on Marine Drive, near the sea. There are regular buses to and from Puri (1 hr). From Bhubaneswar, with a change of buses at Pipli, it takes two to four hours.

 

There is a direct A/C OTDC tourist bus leaving from the Old bus stand in Bhubaneswar at 10 am. Visitors must pay the full cost of a day tour if they wish to take this bus.

 

There is a daily tour going to Konark from Puri and Bhubaneswar (Tues to Sat). You can take a taxi from Puri for about Rs 400 roundtrip.

 

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