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Konark,
also known as Arka-Tirtha, is known for its fantastic temple of Lord
Surya, the sun-god. It is situated on the seashore, 33km north of Puri
and 64km from Bhubaneswar. It was constructed of black stone in the
beginning of the 13th century, and it is considered one of the most
vivid architectural showpieces of Hindu India. Despite the fact that
the “Black Pagoda” is in ruins, the remaining porch area and other
structures of this temple complex remain a crown jewel of Orissan
artwork.
Canara
Bank, near the post office, changes money. There
is a small Archeological Museum on the main road (daily except
Friday 10 am to 5 pm) which contains sculptures found during the
temple excavation. Visitors can purchase the Archaeological Survey of
India’s Sun Temple-Konark here for Rs 10. It is not sold at the
temple itself. Most
evenings the temple is floodlit until 9 pm. It looks inspiring at this
time. Registered
guides (those wearing a badge) can show you many interesting
sculptures and sites you may miss on your own (Rs 50 per hour).
Konark
is a major tourist spot, and fighting away the hawkers and vendors can
be tedious. These people will try to charge you double or triple the
correct price for anything they sell, except the booklet about the
place. There
is a quiet beach about 3km south of the temple. The currents can be
strong there, however, so swimming may be dangerous. Not
far from the beach is a pond where Krishna’s son Samba is said to
have been cured of leprosy. Every year during the full moon phase in
the month of Magha (Jan-Feb) there is a festival called Magha Saptami
Mela. People bathe in the pond at night and then watch the sun rise
over the sea the next morning.
This
temple was built in the 13th century by the Orissan King Raja
Narasimhadeva I. It took 1,200 workmen over sixteen years to build.
The temple is covered with intricately carved sculptures. The temple
was no longer used from the early 17th century after it was desecrated
by Muslim invaders. In 1904, the sand around the temple base was
cleared. The
story of the temple is that Samba, the son of Lord Krishna, was cursed
to suffer from leprosy for twelve years. Because he had been cursed by
the sun-god, he built a temple dedicated to Surya. Sailors once called
this temple the Black Pagoda because it was supposed to draw ships to
shore and cause shipwrecks. This
impressive temple resembles a huge chariot with twenty-four wheels
pulled by seven horses. Great pairs of large, intricately carved
wheels were sculpted on both sides of the 4m high platform upon which
the temple sits. Some say the wheels represent the twenty-four hours
in a day; others say they represent the 12 months. The seven horses
are said to symbolize the seven days of the week. There
is a dancing hall, an audience hall, and a high tower. The main
entrance has two large stone lions crushing elephants. Between the
entrance and the main part of the temple is an intricately carved Dancing
Hall. The main tower, which has since collapsed, was 70m (220
feet) high. The Jagmohana (porch) is over 39m (125 ft) high and is
filled in and fortified with rocks to keep it from collapsing. Both
the tower and porch were built on a high platform. All over the base,
walls, and roof are intricate carvings. Many of the carvings are
erotic in nature, similar to the ones at Khajuraho. Visitors can climb
down to the inner sanctum by the temple’s west side. There
are three impressive chlorite figures of Surya facing different
directions in order to catch the sun at dawn, noon, and sunset. The
three statues of Surya change their facial expressions from
wakefulness in the morning (south) to weariness toward the end of day
(north).
There
is also a temple containing the nine planets: Sun, Moon, Mars,
Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Rahu, and Ketu, located to the right
of the main entrance before you enter the complex. Where
to Stay Labanya
Lodge (35824; fax 35860), in a quiet area, is a popular place with
travelers and has rooms with common bath for Rs 100/125. Lodging
Sunrise is the least expensive place in the area.
There
is a direct A/C OTDC tourist bus leaving from the Old bus stand in
Bhubaneswar at 10 am. Visitors must pay the full cost of a day tour if
they wish to take this bus. There
is a daily tour going to Konark from Puri and Bhubaneswar (Tues to
Sat). You can take a taxi from Puri for about Rs 400 roundtrip.
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